Wednesday, 24 July 2013

Day 16; Thunder.

Apparently we had won the battle as we woke at 7:30, no rain yet but the midges were still lurking. We drove in to town to get tea and breakfast - cheese and ham rolls, kindly handmade by Cheryl on a pub bench. As the sky turned dark we knew rain was coming soon, we headed out of the hilly (and what seemed) the middle of no where, to a bigger road. In to our waterproofs, and the heavens opened.

Thunder and lightening was happening all around us, and the rain was so heavy cars couldn't see the cars in front - and there was me and Kate, walking. Almost soaked through to the bone we marched on right through 'til lunch time, we had covered 17 miles already, only 8 to go. We stopped in a cafe and enjoyed hot chocolate with whipped cream and then sat in the bus stop to eat our lunch. We finished in Auldgirth where we met Jc and Cheryl, put our tents up and relaxed outside with Rosé in yogurt pots (glasses are a luxury it turns out).

We headed out for dinner; in an 18th century castle, looking over a lake where flyfishing was the popular past time. Venison sausages with mash followed by bread & butter pudding. The food was delicious, and we enjoyed every moment as we realised it would be in the top few meals of our whole trip. Rolling ourselves out to the car was a struggle and we soon crashed in our tents - which Cheryl had so beautifully decorated with fairy lights! It had been such a lovely evening and perfect end to the day - thank you Cheryl and Jc for making it so wonderful!

Day 15; Circles.

After a night of playing on my laptop it felt like an early rise at 7:15, breakfast meet was at 8am, sharp. After trying black pudding and square sausages (a Scottish tradition apparently) we were off and heading for Leadhills. Jc joined us for the first 5 miles, and with new company the miles flew by. Cheryl then caught up in the car, exchanged Jc for sausage sandwiches and me and Kate continued on our way.

Feeling positive about our good pace today, 9 miles in we were met with a stumble. We could see that the pathway that the map said to take in front of us, was actually no longer a footpath. So we came back on ourselves for 3 miles, and took a new root. Looking over the fields and seeing the point where we had just been was slightly disheartening but we continued. The next road had no public access, it wasn't our day. We turned around (3 miles back on ourselves once more) and found ourselves at the same junction for the 3rd time. We completed a detour of 10 miles and it was now 5pm without having stopped for a break - feeling low on sugar and ready to go on strike we continued until our miles were finished for the day, and then walked to the nearest town to find a pub on the river.

This we found, however the old men that come with it, we hadn't quite considered. They were spilling their words and were almost offended that me and Kate couldn't make any sense of their Scottish, drunken, slurred accents. However, we were sponsored £45 in that wierd and wonderful village; that we couldn't complain at. We met Jc and Cheryl in the town; after a wee drive around what felt like the whole of Scotland, we ended up at the original campsite, raced to get our tents up, cooked cous cous for dinner, while entering WW3 with the midgies, showered and crawled in to bed.

Day 14; Family.

Maggie, our B&B owner made us a healthy continental breakfast to get our day off to a good start. Today we walked through Glasgow - our first city. It has cobbled streets with shops that line both sides amongst pretty, historic, tall buildings that showed some Scotish culture. In all honesty, we wouldn't rush back there. The skies were blue once again and after eating our lunch on the edge of a dual carriageway in the only shade we could find, we went on for our final 8 miles to Strathaven. The excitement begun to rise as we knew my sister Cheryl and brother Jc were meeting us at the end of the day, in our best hotel of the trip.

It was enough motivation to finish our day in record time; 18:30. We had now walked 300 miles to date. We were staying at the Best Western, where they had so kindly given our room to us free (£110 free!) AMAZING! I was so happy to see both of them, so happy! 

They showed us to our room - they were opposite us. They had brought us every luxury we could ever possibly want; face masks, body scrubs, dresses to wear to dinner, my laptop, and of course, hair wax - it was a completely unexpected but appreciated surprise! As we pampered / removed the faint scent of trecking from ourselves, we were shown our fridge - full of chocolate, lemon cheesecake (my favourite) and Jager - how did they know!? I also had flowers delivered to me as a surprise from a good friend - the sweetest thing! (Thank you!) My sister (Precious) had also made me a video from my family all wishing me good luck - it was so so lovely (Chunk that was so sweet, thank you!) 

We had dinner outside in the gardens of the hotel, it was Jager O'clock. We finished the night in our room with cups of hot chocolate cuddling under the duvets - for me, it had been the loveliest evening of the trip so far - and was every bit of motivation and encouragement that I needed to keep going to the finish line. My family are amazing, thank you all of you for your support!

Day 13; Holiday.

I woke cuddling my second pillow - I had slept like a baby. Scotish oats with cinnamon for breakfast, clean cloths packed and we were ready. Barbra and William treated us to a trip across the Loch on their magnificent boat (with Anne Marie) to take us back to where we had finished yesterday. 

It was beautiful; we got a dinghy across to the boat and then sailed across while the sun beamed down on us. The boat was 40ft and had been built in 1928, Barbara had also kindly made us cheese sandwiches for lunch too - sweetie! 

We passed the islands that made the faultline between the Highlands and the Lowlands, and were informed how one had wolobies living on it. On to shore, we headed down the road and while still in holiday mode we stopped for an ice cream. 

We walked to Milngaive - 23 miles southward towards Glasgow, where we stayed in a B&B that Anne Marie and Jim had so kindly donated to us. Today was like our mini holiday!

Sunday, 21 July 2013

Day 12; Boulders.

It was an early start as we heading off at 8am; the rising sun was already warm. The start of our day looked a little bit how I expect Texas to look, harsh shrubs with dramatic mountains in the background, with high wooden fences / gates every 50m or so and sand that crunched beneath out boots (do inform me if my image of Texas is somewhat inaccurate). The climbs were steep and as temperatures rose to 30 degrees, by lunch time my water was out. We walked across shallow streams along the West Highland Way, and passed beautiful waterfalls which tempted Kate and I to jump in, on numerous occasions. We were heading for Lomond Loch, and after stopping for lunch at a campsite (free refill of water too) we continued on for our last leg. The hardest leg.

We scrambled across boulders of rock that stubbornly lay across our pathway, sometimes having to ditch the poles to climb up or down them; I think someone forgot the definition of pathway at some stage on this stretch. But then the view of Loch Lomond (a 26 mile Loch - the biggest inland pool of fresh water in Europe - and 600ft deep in parts) was the most stunning view I had seen since starting this whole adventure. It was honestly like paradise. The water glistened in the bright sunlight, it was calm and beautifully clear. The whole place shouted out peacefulness, romance, relaxation and holidays. There were waterskiers, jet skiers and boats all soaking up the Loch's wonders. We continued along the loch for 6 miles where we finished.

Kate's family friends met us at the end; Jim and Anne Marie - a wonderfully kind and generous couple. They drove us to their simply perfect home, where we were greeted with our own rooms with double beds, dressing gown and towels (and 2 pillows!). We had reached heaven. After a bath in what felt like a jacuzi (it was enormous), Barbara (Anne Marie's sister) came over and had made us a hearty feast; leg of lamb, potatoes and carrots. Followed by cake and fresh fruit with chilled cream and yogurt. Spending an evening with such a lovely Scottish family was so special - and they were so truly welcoming (as our washing was spinning in the machine). It had been a day never to forget.

Saturday, 20 July 2013

Day 11; Butterflies.

We woke at 7am, still raining, we power walked back on to the West Highland Way and were heading for the Bridge of Orkney. Once the clouds passed we were left with clear blue skies, and the sunshine returned once more; the magical part of this time of day is when the butterflies come out - hundreds of them. 

We passed Mount Black; where near the top we could see for miles - it was stunning. This area is famous for mountain climbers especially in the winter season - but on a summers day it is just as beautiful. We made it to Tyndrum, our final stop by a delightful 7pm, the sun was still up, so me and Kate for once had a few hours to do what we wanted. I wrote to a good friend, dinner, and then called home. Final word, I lost both my little toe nails today. (sorry mum for sharing that).

Thursday, 18 July 2013

Day 10; Mountains.

We woke at 7:45 and after a delightful breakfast we packed our bags and said goodbye to our guardian angels, Linda and Scott (they couldn't have done more for us - and we were so grateful). Today we were walking along the West Highland way heading to Kingshead. We began by crossing Ben Nevis, climbing 580m high in to the clouds. It was stunning! I had been looking forward to this day from the very beginning, and it didn't disappoint. We were walking in a valley for most of the day, surrounded by high mountain edges covered in fresh green foliage, and their tops were hiding amongst the clouds that would visit us later on that day.

The best news, my feet no longer had their own pulse! I can't tell you how nice it was to walk without my feet throbbing - it makes such a difference to your day. I was feeling on top of the world; it was the best day of walking (pain wise) since day 2... finally! After lunch we climbed 5 miles up the next mountain - this was a fun challenge and the views that greeted us at the top were more than worth it. The nicest thing about this walk is lots of people walk it, so you get to meet other crazy walkers (it's nice to know we're not alone). Problem is with mountains, when you go up, you've got to come down (yes mum, you were right). We staggered down Devils Steps for 2 miles until we reached sea level again. The cloud cover was low and the sun was not to be seen, as we walked on through the rain we finished our mileage and pitched up next to a slow flowing river.

Our first night of wild camping - exciting! The midges were out in strong force and both Kate and I almost got eaten alive... but we survived long enough to make it to the pub across the river. Just a lemonade for us - got to take this walking seriously you know (Kate keeps telling me). Now into my snug sleeping bag, toes are happy to be in there too - thank goodness. Now I can sleep with one very happy smile. Night.    

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Day 9; A&E.

We woke at a delightful 9am, and slowly strolled down the corridor to breakfast at half past, it was bliss! Linda and Scott came in for a chat, 3 hours later we left the breakfast table (Linda is like me when it comes to talking) and Scott drove me and Kate to A&E. We waited for three hours and both left with antibiotics, pain killers, anti-inflamatories and dressing for our feet. My little toe was infected but the nurse assured me the pain should be gone in 7 days - hooray! While Kate's ankle had ballooned with her tendonitous on her achilles - what a pair!

We hobbled our way in to town, completed a list of essentials that Kate had so well organised, grabbed some dinner in a funny pub which reminded me of somewhere on the Austrian slopes - stuffed animals on the walls, a dingy gloomy look to the decor and people that looked in a time warp with puffed jackets and walking boots on (remembering Ben Nevis looked down over this bleak Scotish town). 

After our short walk we returned to the B&B where we enjoyed home baked shortbread with a cup of tea while sitting on our perfectly white bed. This was the best 24 hours so far - we love rest days! As our feet gradually puffed up in front of us, we decided it was bedtime, finding our comforting pillow once again. Lights off.

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Day 8; Rain.

We woke at 7am, it was still raining. We met another Aussie couple and they gave us Aussie muscle rub, insisting it would help, and donated to BHF. Another couple also donated £10, it was a good start to our day. Back on the Great Glen Way, heading to Fort William. Not so hilly today, a lot more pain though. The Neurofen Plus wasn't touching my little toe, so it was back to running; now up the hills aswell as down. We were in a valley walking along Loch Locty (not sure on spelling for this one) and pine trees 60ft tall shadowed over us both sides of the pathway, with mountains surrounding them. It was pretty; the shores were peacefully with the water calm and clear, while the woods were dark; the timber creaked as the wind sailed between them.

We finished our walk along a 10 mile stretch of the Caladonian canal, by this time me and Kate resembled drowned rats; I was still in shorts and T-shirt while Kate (the sensible one of the two of us) was in full waterproofs. The owners of our B&B came to be the sweetest couple we had met on the walk so far. They picked us up from the canal and took us to their beautiful home. It smelt of lilies (before we took our boots off) Scot (the husband) then drove to get us dinner while Linda ran me a bath. Linda turned out to be a nurse, she looked at my feet concerningly and asked me to visit A&E the following morning. Infection. Brilliant. (At least there was a reason it had been keeping me up.)

Dinner was on the table, I then stubbed my little toe on the chair - it hadn't been my night. Linda and Scot told us we would be staying with them for a second night, on them, as a sponsor to us. Me and Kate went to bed feeling very very lucky to have met this lovely couple.

Day 7; Nessy.

After a yummy cooked breakfast at our B&B, we were heading for the 'Great Glen Way', 26 miles ahead of us and we had been warned of the hills for today. The first 200m were slow and I started to question how it would be possible to walk the full distance. Although I knew I would, I didn't know how. We were first welcomed on to the national footpath by a 2 mile incline at 19%, exciting for me, not so great for Kate and her achilles. The heat was dry today as it reached around 24 degrees in the early afternoon, making the hills a little more challenging. We walked along the Loch Ness today, which was much bigger than I had imagined. The clear blue sky gave amazing views across the Loch, which stretched for further than the eye could see.

After 7 hours without breaking we had reached the first road, we had done 20 miles and lunch time was calling. Feeling pleased with our progress we quickly powered through the final leg of the day and camped at Invergary where the owners kindly donated our tent pitch. Dinner was sausage and beans, I then called home, 2 and a half hours later (and they say I can talk!) I showered and then in to my sleeping bag. It had been a really good day, only problem was I couldn't sleep as my little toe decided it wanted its own pulse, and refused to have the sleeping bag around it, so I had to sleep out of the covers. 4am came and went, it was now raining outside. The joys of British weather. Still, another day down, 42 to go.

Monday, 15 July 2013

Day 6; Good times.

We rose at Dingwall campsite at 7:30, we were offered tea by our German camping neighbours but declined as we were walking to town for breakfast - a small treat after our super long day yesterday. Just before departing one of the boys from next door asked "yesterday you walked really bad, do you think you are going to make it?" I tried to convince him that he caught me at a bad moment - he looked completely unconvinced.

With high ambitions for the day, we set off. Long roads and lots of hills, which gave me and Kate 9 hours of chitchat. As we reached our B&B a sweet couple ran out to the street to sponser us, they had also booked us in for dinner that night - some people can't do enough for you in Scotland, it seems.

Day 5; Exhaustion.

30 miles down to Dingwall. We had crossed the 100 mile milestone in the early morning which pushed us on, but being 25 degrees with no breeze and following a 12 mile incline, it was a tough start to the day.

Lunchtime called after 15 miles and ice cream was our treat as we had reached a small form of civilisation. Blisters continued to appear on our tender feet, both up to about 11 each - more Compede would be needed soon! The next 6 miles were wonderful, we talked about nonsense as we found ourselves back on the A9 again, we quickly forgot about our pains and aches as we got lost in conversation. As the sun began to haze over, the heat became more bearable - unfortunately we had both slightly burnt by this time - but nothing quite prepared us for the final 3 miles of the day.

As the town was in sight, it felt like the never ending road, the painkillers were wearing off and our sugar levels were dropping, Kate had been sick twice and I had almost passed out, just from heat exhaustion. We hobbled on but the pain got worse, by the time we had reached our camp I could barely stand. 

Tears were drying on my sun touched cheeks and my knees were ready to give way. A kind man showed us to our pitch, and a sweet lady made me and Kate a cup of tea and gave us a KitKat each. It reminded us of why we were doing this as we both laid there on the grass unwilling to move - and it made every second of pain completly worth it. I was proud of both of us.

Day 4; Heatwave.

Day 4, we left Brora and headed south for 26 miles. The A9 is Scotland's version of the M25 yet it's a single road with very few cars and its surrounded by pretty views of the Scottish Highlands (which are now becoming the norm), however following this one road for a full marathon is a little repetitive, so to keep up the high spirits I continued to wave at everyone that past, whilst grinning to myself. With my knees still playing up, I took to running down the hills today - much more exciting it turns out!

Today I listened to my ipod and I was amazed by the power of music, it lifted my day completely - although it is a little odd listening to the Arctic Monkeys in the country side - as I sung aloud, the miles seemed to fly by. The highlight of my day was a three year old boy running out to his garden to give me a daisy, and then waving good bye as we continued - cutie! 

We reached the end of our walk on a beautiful loch, and we pitched our tent as the sun begun to set. I managed to call home too which was the icing on the cake for me, and then I met an Aussie family, we chit chatted about Aussie life; now the cherry was on top. What an amazing day.

Thursday, 11 July 2013

Day 3; Puddles.

We woke at 7:45 and were greeted by puddles on our porch. Neither of us had heard rain through the night, so I wriggled my way outside to find we were in a rain cloud - that's quite typical it turns out, if you're in the Scottish Highlands. I used my walking socks that I had washed the night before to de-soak the inside of our tent, and then hung them on our portable washing line (kindly gifted by Cheryl - turns out it's very handy indeed!). Waterproofs it was then. We hobbled our way to the ladies, wrapped up, arranged our bags for the day and we were off. Just as we were leaving, three elders; two female, one male, donated to our charities and wished us luck. What sweethearts!

Today was going to be brain numbing, we knew that from the start; a marathon along one very long road, it had to get boring! To make things even more exciting, we couldn't see anything. I mean anything - we were in the thick of the clouds, I had my head torch at the ready had things got worse ("I was well prepared" I suggested to Kate as she was grinning at me).

The first 12 miles went smoothly, Kate then shouted that lunch was waiting at the top of the hill - which we couldn't see! By this time it was 2.20, and we were feeling optimistic. The afternoon brought some sunshine with it and as the hills got steeper and the declines went on longer both Kate and I couldn't help but feel like these miles wern't fading - unlike our motivation. Today I learnt that downhill really isn't my forte - however it was Kate's. As the approaching sign said 13% decline for 1 mile "test your breaks", my heart sunk. My left knee was burning and as I was already limping on the downwards slopes I had a feeling this one would be no different, only harder. The pain was like no other, so I resorted to walking backwards (I knew you were all waiting for it) a good friend had joked about it the night before, and what a genius idea, it was pain free - even if I did look a little silly. After a while I tried taking the crouched position as if I was entering a slalom race, this helped a little.

As the upwards stretch was nearing, with 10 miles to go I was pleading it would start sooner. And I was off! 22 miles came and went and the road never seemed to end. By this point both Kate and I were in 'one step in front of the other' mode. We just wanted to finish. Once we had made it, we once again hitch hiked back to our camp site in Brora, this time by an older but friendly chap, Bill. He was very knowledgeable on local antics and he was on a mission to put the world to rights - all within our 30 mile car journey with him. Unfortunatly, neither Kate nor I could understand him all that clearly. He kindly dropped us at the local shop where we enjoyed the small pleasures of Lucozade and a Freddo. We then walked another 2 miles or so to our site. We were exhausted. I slumped on to my rucksack to eat my dinner and then went off to shower.

After trying to call loved ones at home and not being able to, I learnt how much we take things for grated in every day life. The small things that we expect to be there, i.e. phone signal, and when they're not, it's harder to deal with when mentally exhausted already. I went on to write my journal outside in the cold fresh air, (we won't speak of the tears on the steps outside the bathroom). And now shivering, I made my way back to the tent. I'm back in my sleeping bag, Kate is snoring, and my toes are now numb. It's finally bed time.

Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Day 2; Buttercups.

We rose at 6:40, in time to enjoy the luxury of another hot shower - with complimentary soap. After packing our bags we headed for breakfast; porridge (which I can confirm paleo has completely put me off), followed by sausages, bacon, mushrooms and beans, with orange juice and tea! Now slightly unable to move, we throw our bags on our backs and off we go.

The sun is hot today, and the breeze is non-existent, making our first slog rather toasty. The roads were lined with buttercups, which looked beautiful in the sunshine - and they reminded me of my parents. Now smiling to myself, we continued on. By 10:25 we had reached the 6 mile check point and we paused for our first break. So far no niggles or pains.

8 minutes later and we're off again, or so I had hoped - only problem was my feet weren't following the instructions my brain was feeding them. Wobbling for the first 20 metres, I decided to drop back and attempt to regain my normal walking stride. It wasn't happening. As Kate pulled away and now seemed a small figure in the distance it was time for a change of mind set. What better cure than a bit of George Michael!? I couldn't see anybody or anything (other than trees) for miles, so I was quite confident my singing wouldn't disturb the locals, so off I went, one song after another, before I knew it I was back with Kate and now overtaking. This road was twelve miles long, I made it through his CD from memory before we made it to the end. (I'm considering I may need to get out more.)

The roads were mainly long heather with tall, dark green, dense conifers in the background. Occasionally we would see a stray sheep, but even they were few and far between. Lunch stop was at 1:40, 14 miles completed, and 13 miles to go along another very straight road. But this time our feet were so sore that just 15 minutes release from our boots was a huge treat. Lunch didn't last long and then we headed left on a slightly busier road for the remaining 13 miles. Today I learnt that uphill walking is my forte, I love it! And I was in luck these roads went up, and up, and up. We climbed to 120m above sea level and then wound down the country lane, with mountains off in the distance collecting fog, while a rainbow appeared across the sea. It was truly beautiful!

We had reached our desitination and decided to hitchhike (Mum, shut your ears!) to the camp site. A lovely man call Carl (ironically) gave us a lift, the first car we had tried - we then explained we would have to hitch hike back in the morning to start from where he had picked us up from - he seemed slightly shocked by the whole idea. After half an hour we had our tent up and dinner was cooking - Lancashire hotpot and cous cous - what culinary delights! It was pleasant to have a warm shower and then wrap up under our sleeping bags - which is where I am now. Now sleepy time has arrived, finally. Night.

Monday, 8 July 2013

Day 1; The start.

The start. It's 8.10am and I am woken by Kate opening the zip to the tent in desperation for the toilet. I've slept like a baby. On her return, she assures me that the weather is nice outside, good news - the tent is dry. A shower and a slight faffing session - I'm letting myself off though, as its day 1, and getting used to living out of a rucksack and in a tent can take some time. Right! At 9.45 we head to "the sign" where we chose to have "Blue & Kate 08/07/13" and we stand nervously for our photo knowing that this is the start. 1100 miles, Day 1. Let's go.

After we're 1 mile in (we later confessed) the thought of "what on earth were we thinking?!" ran through both our minds. As our feet settled into our shoes and our rucksacks dug into our backs, we considered why we had ever thought this challenge would be possible. After 5 miles at 11.50 we paused to change into shorts, the sunshine was so glorious that we changed to begin our dodgy tan lines. We then turned left and stayed on a narrow road for the next ten miles. We met with all of about six cars over the next three hours, and half way down we turned 360 degrees to find no sign of urbanisation. It was just me and Kate, a few sheep and cows, and a long stretch of road ahead of us. We had a break for lunch at 3pm, relaxing on a small bridge over a tiny stream, snacking on brioche before releasing our feet from our shoes and finding ourselves in the reclined position. 18 minutes later, its time to continue.

The first 30 steps were wobbly, but then my feet settled in. This is where me and Kate discovered that although our pace was the same, my stride length is about 8" longer than hers, so I generally lived 20 foot in front of her. Her shoulders were sore, and after many attempts of "reorganising" her bag, she gave into the pain and powered forwards. There were what seemed beautiful mountains in the far distance ahead of us. The whole place was beautiful! Finally, we could see a loch in front of us. We were a mile away. My bag started to dig in to my shoulders and I longed for the Brown Trout Hotel sign where we could finally release our shoulders from their weight. And we were there, showered, washed our clothes, dinner and then blow dried our clothes dry ready for the morning. In bed by 10.30, still awake at gone 12.30. With a long day ahead, I tried to forget about the challenge ahead and rest. Excited, and nervous, but happy knowing we were now only 727 miles away from home.

Day -1

So it begins. Our brave adventurers head as far north as possible, with the sole intention of going south again. Barmy Blue and Crazy Kate prepare for the biggest challenge of their lives with a tent and the absolute essentials... One change of clothes, twenty seven cans of spray-on tan, and a pull-along cart with the 57 maps in. No food, but they're confident that they can smile at the locals and get fed. Scotland seems much cooler than the 30 degrees they left behind in London and they are relieved. They cannot understand a word the locals are saying, but they decide to smile and nod their heads. Nobody warned them about those blasted insects, but they don't care - that won't last for long. They have their ipods to play Beyonce if spirits dip, which of course is very unlikely. They're raring to go at 9am tomorrow. They just need to find a five star hotel in Wick for one last night of luxury before going "back to nature" for 7 weeks. The world holds its collective breath and wishes them good luck... Have fun, take care, stay safe.

A kind start to my blog, gifted by Adrian. Thank you!

Saturday, 6 July 2013

Sunday 7th July

Its just after 6am and I'm leaving for Gatwick Airport. I'm flying into Edinburgh this morning, where I have a five hour wait and then my connecting flight into Wick, landing at 5pm and then a taxi up to John O'Groats for my first night camping on our seven week adventure! My bag is (almost!) packed, it weighs in at 19 kilos... ouch! I'm so excited to be finally starting. Thank you to everyone for your support in the run up! Next update from Scotland!!

If you want to join me this is my route, I'd love to see you along the way!

Cannon Bridge
Fort William
Glen Nevis
Hesket Newmarket
Holmes Chapel
Mawgan Porth
Sennen Cove